Installation of Oak Framework
(Non Glazed Products)
All our oak framed buildings use a traditional mortise and tenon joint.
As all our project are accompanied with full working drawings, they indicate what piece goes where. All oak timbers are labelled, sanded and pre-finished which means the only tool required to install the oak frame is a large mallet. This is used to hammerthe oak dowels into the preformed holes at the joints.
Some smaller items like oak porch trusses are pre-assembled and no fixing is required. Larger projects including garden rooms, orangeries and atriums will somethimes require the use of plant hire, scaffolding and lifting equipment.
Installation of Oak Framework
Any oak framed buildings that are glazed follow the same procedure as described above but required further instructions.
All framework that is to be glazed will have an additional piece of softwood already fixed to the outer face of the frame. This is slightly smaller in width to create a rebate either side to hold the glazed units.
Any aperature that requiries glazing needs to have a self-adhesive tape (supplied) attached around the perimeter of oak frame. All glazing units supplied are 6mm smaller in both height and width to give a 3mm expansion gap between the oak frame and unit itself. 3mm packers are requried to be placed along the base of each aperature to sit the glazing unit upon. After removing the backing paper, the glazed unit can be lifted into place and presssed against the self-adhesive tape.
A further piece of tape is applied to the glazing unit creating a sandwich. See drawing. Finally, a pre-drilled and pre-finished oak cover can be postioned over the edge ofthe glazed unit holding it in place.
Maintenance of Exterior Oak Framework
First of all, oak framed builings and other framework does not ‘need’ any finish or maintenance. Oak is a very durable timber and therefore any products applied to the oak are purely for cosmetic reasons. Although an exterior oil will dispell the weather, the longevity of the oak will be the same whether it is treated or not.
The main reason we provide a pre-treated oak framed building is so that the colour and characteristics remain as close to the finished item for a period of time thereafter. Oak is photosensitive and when exposed to the UV (Ultra Violet) rays of sunlight, the timber will overtime, darken and eventually become a silvery/grey colour.
Structural Engineer Calculations
There are times when some projects require the service of a structural engineer. Normally, we would ask for the architect or project manager to supply such details. All our oak beams are structurally graded to a minimum of D30.
On larger projects we are able to liaise with a third party structural engineer to assess and help in providing a workable oak frame or truss.
Site Conditions for Engineered Oak Flooring
It’s important to remember that the site conditions you acclimatise your engineered oak flooring to are within specified limits. Ideally, the temperature needs to be between 17 and 20 degrees centigrade and relative humidity levels between 40% and 60%. These figures are comparable to a normal domestic room that is heated with traditional radiators or under floor heating.
Also, the temperature and humidity levels should be kept reasonably constant throughout the floors life to ensure a stable board is maintained.
It would stand to reason that extreme conditions will have an impact on the oak flooring dimensions and this in-turn would cause expansion or contraction depending on the atmospheric conditions.
Laying Guidelines for Engineered Oak Flooring
Your oak flooring can be nailed down if a suitable subfloor is available. This could be joists, battens or plywood sheeting.
Care should be given when nailing regarding the location of electric wires and water pipes.
The recommended tool is called a Port-a-nailer and uses a barbed-like nail that is forced through the top of the tongue of the floorboard at 45 degrees. This nail then grips the batten or joist below, pulling itself tighter to the adjacent board.
With the advancement of glues on the market, these make life easier as they have an elastic type property allowing the flooring to move should the need arise.
Glueing a floor needs to be done on a flat and level surface as severe undulations would not allow a good seal between the floor and subfloor.
If your subfloor is concrete or a levelling compound used for underfloor heating, a sealant should be used to enable the glue to adhere properly to the flooring.
The recommended glues and sealants would be: (CLICK BELOW FOR DETAILS)
Maintenance of Engineered Oak Flooring
Your oak flooring is pre-finished with 2 coats of UV hard wearing Osmo Oil. The oil is durable and can withstand most domestic, everyday wear and tear usage.
Spillages and general maintenance can easily be completed using the compatible floor cleaning solution.
Your oak flooring can be vacuumed as regularly as needed with the addition of cleaning the floor periodically with Osmo ‘Wash and Care’ cleaning solution.
More stubborn marks and light scratches may need to be lightly sanded back and repaired with a matching coloured oil.
Installation of Oak RSJ Covers
As oak covers can be used to disguise many items, the following instructions have been written as if you are covering a steel RSJ on a flat ceiling.
A tolerance should be made of 10mm in both the drop and width of the RSJ. This is to allow any deviation in the manufacturing of the oak cover and any deflection in the RSJ.
For example, an RSJ measuring a standard 203mm x 203mm would need to have an internal dimension of the oak cover of 213mm x 213mm. The covers can be made to any width and drop.
Your oak cover is manufactured from 27 to 30mm thick oak planks depending on stock availability and therefore the external dimensions of the above example would have a drop of 235-238mm and a width of 267-273mm
Drop 203mm RSJ + 5mm tolerance + 27mm to 30mm thick oak = 235-243mm in total
Width 203mm for the RSJ + 10mm tolerance (5mm each side) + 2 planks at 27mm to 30mm thick oak = 267-273mm in total
Installation of oak covers is normally a 2 or more person job. This depends on the length, location and dimension of the cover.
Working on the same example from above, there is a need to secure noggins between the top and bottom flanges of the RSJ.
These can be set at 800mm centres along each side down the length of the cover. Ideally, another noggin should be placed at the ends. Important: mark the location of these noggins on the ceiling as they won’t be visible when the oak cover is guided in to place.
Every oak covers come with a specially shaped drill bit and matching oak pellets. This drill bit is used to create a hole in the side of the cover to accommodate a suitable screw.
The head of the installed screw is then disguised with the oak pellet as shown in the diagram on the left-hand side. Align the grain on the pellet to match that shown in the oak cover. This pellet can be left as a feature or chiselled flat and coloured using the supplied matching wax stain.
External Door Components and Information
All our external doors can be supplied with both 3D adjustable hinges and espagnolette system.
General questions asked to manufacturer your oak door would include:
Will it be hung (or hinged) on the left or right hand side when viewed from the front?
Is there any glazing required and if so, size and location within the door?
Are there any restrictions on the thickness of floor coverings inside the hallway?
Are there any specific requirements for ironmongery design or colour?
Including the frame, what is the overall width and height of the aperture?
Your oak door is pre-finished, pre-hung and ready to install.
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